Following Illegal Hunters Illegally Trapping the Nation's Rare Songbirds.
The conservationist's eyes scan across miles of tall grassland, hunting for suspicious activity in the pre-dawn darkness.
He speaks in less than a whisper as we try to find a place of cover in the open area. In the distance, the huge urban center of Beijing has yet to wake. As we wait, the only sound is our own breath.
And then, as the sky turns a shade lighter ahead of sunrise, we hear footsteps. Illegal trappers are present.
Trapped
Across the heavens, countless migratory birds, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have utilized the warmer months in northern regions, feasting on insects and fruit. As the year comes to a close and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they are flying to warmer places to breed and eat.
There are 1500-plus bird species, accounting for thirteen percent of the planet's species β over eight hundred of those are migratory birds. Four of the nine major paths they follow converge in China.
The area of meadow in question, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds β any further and the city skies offer scant chance to rest among clusters of concrete.
It is also an oasis for the poachers and their "mist nets", so fine you can almost miss them.
The trap we stumbled upon was extending over a large section of the field and propped up with wooden sticks. In the middle, a small finch was desperately trying to escape, but the more it moved, the more its claws became tangled.
This was a meadow pipit, a protected bird in China, and an important "bio-indicator" β that means if its population is healthy, so is its environment.
Tracking the Trappers
This activist, does this work for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many sleeping hours to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last 10 years persuading the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"In the early days, authorities were indifferent," he states.
So he enlisted helpers who did care and established a group known as the Bird Protection Unit. He held community gatherings and invited the officials of the local police and forestry bureau. These consistent and determined acts of advocacy seem to have paid off. The police found that catching poachers also helped in uncovering other kinds of illegal operations.
"We found our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, while pointing out that the response is not uniform.
His passion for avian life began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a very different Beijing.
He recalls roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he encountered birds, frogs and snakes. "But starting from the 2000s, the transformation was dramatic."
Rapid economic growth brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This rapid urbanisation meant grasslands were considered empty places to build, not protected zones to conserve.
The transformation was alarming. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the wildlife they housed.
"I made the choice back then to work in conservation and I took this path," he says.
It has not been an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was being investigated by Silva and retaliated.
"He gathered several of his accomplices who confronted me and beat me up," Silva remembers. He says he went to the police but those responsible were not held accountable.
He has also lost his team of helpers over the years. This work requires patience and night vigils. Silva says few people are willing to take on the challenging and occasionally risky job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must commit completely. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says fundraising pays for some of the costs β more than 100,000 yuan annually β but support has waned because of the economic situation.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes aerial photos to find the routes worn away by the poachers. He maps those against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may rest. The satellite images can even show netting setups which can catch scores of small birds during darkness.
"Certain prized species sell for a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now often affluent."
While there are wildlife laws in place, Silva believes the fines to punish the crime do not outweigh the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was β and for some people in China, still is β a status symbol. This originates from the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
It's a tradition that persists mainly among retired men in their later years. Silva says some elderly citizens may not understand they are committing a wildlife crime, or understand that so many more birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a pet.
"These individuals often lacked enough to eat growing up. Now with a little money, they have adopted the habit and custom of keeping birds in cages," he says. "China developed so fast, there was little opportunity to educate people about ecology. Once people's attitudes are formed, they're extremely difficult to change."
Apprehended
On a long low wall in Beijing, a trader has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
Another man stands outside a local market holding a bird cage shrouded in a black veil. He informs passers-by quietly that his songbird is rare, worth about 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have established a niche trade.
The area by the river stretches for several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from old trinkets to false teeth.
We were told that protected birds could be bought in a nearby green space. It was easy to find.
Music was blasting from a speaker under the low trees where a troop of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Close by several men, all in their later years, had congregated with bird cages β some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in black fabric.
But today there would be no sales because the police had arrived. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his